Tuesday, November 30, 2004

Archaeology Lesson, Part 3

Once again, I show that I can both study and not study for the midterm at the same time, by telling other people about what I should be reading about.

Last Monday our trip was to the so-called "Tombs of the Kings," located somewhere north of the Old City, in the middle of the American Colony, I think. They were called Royal because they were discovered by some guy who got all excited by how elaborately the frieze on the front had been carved or something and thought it must be for the kings of Judah. Why do some archaeologists never bother to check up on their assumptions before they go around naming everything? Students in my class are being forced to make lists of all the sites that were named something by their discoverers that gives you a totally wrong impression of who built it or who it's for. There's the Hasmonean tower which was not built by the Hasmoneans, but by Herod. The Migdal David, not built by David. Tombs of the Kings, not at all royal, unless you think it was the tomb of Queen Helen of blah blah blah, in which case, there are still no kings. And so on.

The burial caves aren't big or anything, but I was happily surprised when our professor let us loose in the dark caves to explore, with only the candles she brought with her for light. Creepy fun. Then we all had to gather later to allow her to talk. I think we all felt very cult-like sitting in these old rock-cut burial caves, everyone with a candle in their hand.

Yesterday was the Western Wall tunnels, which are located in a complex to the left of the Kotel, and run along the entire western side of the Temple Mount and under the Muslim neighborhoods, north of the Kotel. They exist so people can see the foundations of the walls of Temple Mount, and more of the old Herodian stones underneath. Cool to see, but it's really just rocks, so not that interesting to describe.

Where to next? No idea. I haven't looked at our syllabus for weeks now. I could, but my notebook is all the way across the room, and I'm way too lazy to get up.

Saturday, November 27, 2004

Thanksgiving

Since I can't really do the family Thanksgiving dinner here, I can at least make up a list of things I'm thankful for, as a good little American should. Too bad I couldn't post this on the actual day, due to one of the things I'm NOT thankful for, the extremely spazzy and temperamental internet connection in the dorms, which allowed picture posting but fizzled out on text posting. Makes no sense.

First off, I am of course incredibly thankful for the opportunity that I've had to live in one of the most interesting cities in the world, and to explore this beautiful country and region. Five years ago I probably was only peripherally aware that Israel existed at all, and even then you would have had to say the words "Middle East" for me to have any kind of idea where it was or why it's important.

There's no one who I have to thank more for all this than my parents, who've supported me both emotionally and financially, and kept their cool in the face of my insistence on going to rather unsafe areas. I love you, Mom and Dad.

I'm thankful for all the people I've met here. With the exception of a few shady characters, who were enlightening in their own way, I suppose, both the natives and the foreigners milling around this place have been interesting, pleasant, and yet so different from what I'm used to. I've crossed paths with random people who I'll probably never see again and who lead radically different lives from mine, and I've met some friends who've made this entire experience a joy.

I'm thankful that I'll be seeing my home again soon, despite how interesting and beautiful this place is, despite how sad it will be to leave, and despite unsatisfactory election results. It remains the good ol' US of A.

I'm thankful for indoor heating and that I thought to bring an umbrella. I was kind of surprised that I remembered, but good for me. I'm also thankful for Alit chocolate, affectionately known as "the cow" among some students because of the cow on the wrapper. Good stuff. Oh, and I'm thankful for iced coffee, for the one cafeteria on campus that makes it better than the others, and to Anna for introducing me to it. :)

Friday, November 26, 2004


The sand here was packed up against the mountain-side, making a fun little half-dune. Posted by Hello

Cool ancient graffitti on the rocks. They're called the Alameleh inscriptions. Posted by Hello

Me up on the rocks. The weirdness of the formations around there make them fun climbing. Posted by Hello

Leora ended up picking sand out of unmentionable areas the whole way home. It did look fun, though. She'd been dying to do it the whole trip, so at least she got her wish. Posted by Hello

Disser Posted by Hello

I think this is some peak out of seven, meant to represent (or possibly inspired) TE Lawrence's writings on the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. I don't know. Our driver/guide had a difficult accent, and I wasn't really listening that closely. Posted by Hello

Some of the crazy jagged peaks. Posted by Hello

Leora and Samantha, during our jeep trip around Disser. Posted by Hello

We stopped on the road to Wadi Rum to take some pictures of the mountains below us. Our driver said that that beginning patch of green you can see to the right is part of one of the Prince's residences. But all we saw was trees, no palace, sadly. Posted by Hello

Wednesday, November 24, 2004


Wide-view of the Ad-Deir Monastery, well worth the trek of over 800 stairs up the mountain. You can see the opening in the middle where Saheed and his buddies took us to play music. Posted by Hello

A picture I took when Leora and I were on our way back, and the sun was starting to go down. That's the Royal Tombs in the background there. Posted by Hello

Me trying out the ud with Saheed and his cousins there. Posted by Hello

He just hopped up there with his flute and started playing inside the monastery. He was actually pretty good with it. Posted by Hello

The second lute-man composing the "Canadian Girl Song" for Leora. I think she posted some lyrics on her blog. :) Posted by Hello

Tiny little me standing on the sheer drop to the cavern below Posted by Hello

Just when you think you can't go any farther, you turn a corner and there's the Ad-Deir Monastery. Posted by Hello

One of the Bedouin ladies who sell us stuff, and her little boy. Leora gave her the rest of our pita and labna, she thought she might want it. Such a kind heart. :) We weren't sure that the lady didn't think we just wanted her to hold it for us till we came down again. Posted by Hello

Who knows what I was looking at. Some rock, I suppose. Anyway, this was on the way up to the Monastery. Posted by Hello

One of the views from the mountaintop Leora and I ate lunch on. Posted by Hello

Qasr al-Bint, temple to, I think, the Nabatean equivalent of Aphrodite. I'm amazed that arch is still there after 2000 years of sandstorms and earthquakes. Posted by Hello

Collapsed columns on the site of the Great Temple. Posted by Hello

Leora among the old columns on the Collonaded Street. Posted by Hello

More of the badly-eroded Royal Tombs, of which the Urn Tomb is one. Posted by Hello

The Urn Tomb, way up there on a complex of arches that you have to walk through to get to. Lots of fun. Posted by Hello

View from the Urn toomb. The tiny road you can see down on the right side of the valley is where the collonaded street is. Posted by Hello