Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Night of Power

During the last 10 days of Ramadan, Muslims are instructed to seek and observe the Night of Power, which tradition says is the night the Qur'an was given to Muhammad. Tradition also holds that Allah didn't give the exact date so that Muslims would be encouraged to spend those entire 10 days, and ideally all of Ramadan, in earnest prayer and reflection.

Yesterday was the "official" Night of Power as I understand it, and in Jerusalem, this is an occasion for heavy flocking to the Haram (Temple Mount), Islam's third holiest site. Anna told me that the Old City is packed during this night with worshippers trying to get onto the Mount. Last year she watched it from a lookout point in front of the Seven Arches Hotel on Mount of Olives, and saw the waves of praying Muslims bowing in unison. We went to a point on Mount Scopus where you couldn't see quite as well, especially since it was night. I was kinda disappointed, but you could still hear the sounds of their prayers in unison, getting steadily louder. Later in the night, there were some small fireworks set off over the Old City, which looked very cool in the city lights.

People traffic around the Haram during Ramadan is so heavy that I definitely won't be trying to go until after it's over. Turns out I was wrong when I said you'll get harassed just for being up there. You might, but they'll only really take exception if a non-Muslim tries to enter Al-Aqsa or the Dome of the Rock. Since for a while all I've really wanted to do is walk around the platform, I'm cool with that, and will definitely try to go before I leave.

In other news, it looks like there won't be an Arafat burial uproar. Israel stood firm on the "no burying a terrorist in the Holy City" thing, and it looks like Palestinians have a Ramallah burial plan.

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